Surf Painting

From personal correspondence: Surfing in Sochi, what is it now for me?) It's about processes and about the processes! Wake up at 4:30, brew a thermos of herbal tea, pack, put on a raincoat, rubber boots and go out in the twilight in the rain! Usually forecasts, when there are waves at sea, accompanied by rain! I got in the car to a friend and we went, sleepy thoughts, music in major, stuck in the road and thoughts that spread like foam on the sea, which I will see in forty minutes! On the street still dark and a strong wind, ruffling a jacket -. Dispersing the sea breeze!The waves are crashing, and the wind is bringing the smell of foam to the shore and I feel it, falling into the memories of ocean days!Smell! Reminiscent of the ocean, as the younger brother of the older copies! In addition to the smell, the wind carries heavy rain. Weather changes quickly and I am delighted that you see how the element plays! The sea rages, the wind disperses fears, and the rain calms. Such a mixture is not found in the reflection of something else. Standing on the beach, looking at the waves, studying how they move, where they begin to rise, I think to myself, trying to keep track of the interval between the waves. I'm here, I'm in the process! Take my time and focus on the action. And at the same time, I want to go to wear a wetsuit! And break in! The experience allows you to thoroughly evaluate the potential, and I calmly accept the reality. Here is another feature of these places! Until I get there, I don't know if I can burn today! There is no clear understanding of what will happen, the sea is even more unpredictable than the ocean! In those places where I used to ride, you could come at dawn and 100% enjoy skiing. Immediately I enjoyed watching the sea, the waves. In autumn, the beaches and the sea, as if resting from the people, mesmerizing their views. We sat in the car, discussing the next steps. I went outside, it was already light, with water from the sky, there was an intermission! I went to the shore, thinking that I want to climb into the sea to row, to look around, to feel where I was looking! To wear a wetsuit, fasten the leash (rope that holds the Board on foot), get a Board under his arm, already event! On the water I was caught in the rain, it was warm and peaceful, I was watching myself, looked around, watched the waves, tried to disperse and travel, and I all enjoyed it! I studied myself, that was the goal, it's just not noticeable and will open after a time!Perhaps that is why I went ashore, pleased with myself, with a meager passage on the foam. I look at the people who glide on the waves over and over again, and coming ashore I can not compare, I study this shore...